On a recent trip to Africa, Mali more specifically; I encountered the infamous West African Trade wind known as the Harmattan. While this phenomenon was quite impressive, it was the local reaction that really intrigued me.
A bystander, no one I had any previous encounter with, jumped in front of my camera waving his arms with fury as I took a picture of the, to me, unique experience. Why: because I might profit from it and leave him without compensation. Granted my brother had no idea that I was a humanitarian aid worker, but still, apparently to him, the wind that falls within his borders is the intellectual property of Malians.
Forgive my frustration, but the point of it has grown coarse against my heart. Recently HtW was registering with the government of Mali. Our local staff, Noel, was approached by the police. They interrogated him for hours, made him to return daily for a week. What did they say could stop this, and yield our folder going through the next hoop of bureaucracy? 5,000 CFA (US $10). Our agenda in Mali reaches into the millions, including education aid to the tertiary level…probably affecting directly the life of these men or their children, and he wants ten bucks to pass our folder on… "for his trouble" (aka his job).
What I am getting at is the culture of individualism that exists in Mali, rather my distaste for it. More importantly, how that can prevent development. Whether it is a president selling the natural wealth of a country to his/her own gain, or our not so friendly corrupt police officer preventing aid from reaching his country for…ten US dollars, the situation is alarming and widespread.
I have been working in Africa on and off for four years. Each African country has its particularities. In the south of Algeria the Touareg men wear turbans died of indigo which leaves there skin a deep blue, in Botswana the sign of status is how many cattle you have, in niger… how many wives. A local chief once told me "all the big chiefs have four", he had two, one of which was 13 compared to his 50. The same chief later offered to find me a bride, he proudly said he would set me up with a 14 year old. Amongst other obvious complaints and polite rebukes, I mentioned to him that I would be arrested upon returning to America for such an undertaking.
Culture with all its eccentricities, brings with it, at times, many downfalls. Take the Sahel. In many countries in the region 90% plus of the woman are circumcised. Old news to most, but a fresh reality for all too many thirteen year olds…today! Or certain Southern African nations, where marriage has dissolved so far that in a recent interview a young woman told me "her dream was to have three children…by the same father." I am focusing on the bad, granted, but sometimes we need to. I rebuke any cultural relativist claim that purports "it's ok for them, that is their culture"…Hitler's culture (with a then sizeable following – destroying his entire country) was to exterminate the Jews…accepted via cultural relativity…no!!!...obliterated via the determination of a generation.
To calm down a bit, please understand the profound love I have for the continent of Africa and every country I named above. But at times, like the silly example of my photo, people drive me crazy. The quirks that scratch me in these situations, irritate many, disinterest countless, and contribute to the continued circle of poverty that far too many able, willing and amazing people are subjugated to. Sometimes culture is to be respected like nature: take only photos (ha), leave only footprints, sometimes it is to be treated like mosquitoes – protected with nets, squashed sympathetically. Can I get an amen? Or am I just ignorant?
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